Alavidā India

Day 9 and 10 were a kind of anti-climax, the dampener of the trip. This was caused by a mixture of our India experience knowingly coming to an end and the fact we were heading back to Delhi. Now I’m sure Delhi is a great city, it must have something to be worthy of its capital status but our first experience there at the start of the trip was not enjoyable and we weren’t holding out high hopes on our return. I tried to knock these feelings to the back of mind putting it down to the fact we were tired and overwhelmed on day one but now we were more accustomed and in tune with the Indian way. But this week in Delhi isn’t like normal Delhi as Obama is in town and so security is high and everything is closed. Spenidng all of day 9 travelling back across the country from a place you could stay for weeks to go somewhere you know is going to be lacking is hardly appealing.

Day 9 washes over me. We drive. We eat. We drive.

Waking in Delhi on day 10 we head out in search of whatever we can get access to. Closed. Road Block. Closed. Police everywhere. The only noteworthy thing is that it is spotless. 10 days ago it was littered with people, animals, cars, rubbish, human waste, beggers but today it’s all gone. The once tired green areas are now well groomed and vibrant flowers brighten every corner. The roads are clean and empty, there isn’t a horn to be heard. There are no animals wondering the street in search of scraps. The driver is pleased, he lives in Delhi and has longed to see it this tidy. It’s an impressive change but compared to what I saw on arrival I feel cheated, I didn’t come to India for neat and tidy, for order, for ordinary. I can’t shake the worrying niggle in my head as to the whereabouts of all the homeless, shanty, street folks. Why does it take something like the arrival of one of the worlds most popular man before you realise there might be a problem. I guess I’ll take the positive view, at least there wont be any hawkers.

We set off to see the memorial of Ghandi, it’s a large park and I’ve heard good things. As we drive down the long stretch of road we see the camera crews and news trucks, an official comes over to the car and explains that Obama has just visited so the site will be closed for the next two days, that seems excessive to me but hey ho onto the next disappointment.

Delhi is a ghost town today and we have full reign of the roads (that are open) so getting about is easy. The driver pulls over and points out a Hindu Temple. Now you will know by now I’m a little tired of temples but seeing as we don’t fly out until 2.30am tomorrow morning we have time to kill. Once I’ve stripped myself of any leather items, taken off my shoes and made my shorts hang below my knee I’m good to venture inside.

Wow. I will take back my meh attitude towards temples, this one is outstanding. It’s not the most beautiful one I’ve seen, it’s not the biggest, or the highest or has the best views but I really like it. It doesn’t feel like a tourist experience it feels like a temple. There isn’t any of the normal pressure to buy this and that because its “respectful”. It is a very honest and peaceful place, we wonder around inside and out for about an hour, read every word of all the signs- these are all made by carving sections of the marble walls and then filling them with precious stones that have been cut to size before sanding the wall down so they are smooth to the touch. One mistake and the whole wall would need to be rebuilt.

We manage to score two in a row, our next destination is Akshardham, another temple, this time it is gargantuan in fact it is notable one of the biggest temples in the world. As one of the only things in Delhi that is open it is rammed. We queue for about an hour before getting in but I don’t mind as we have a lot of time still to kill. When I get inside I mind even less, it’s spell binding. The temple and many outbuilding took 10,000 men (3,000 of which were volunteers) 2 days short of 5 years to complete, but had been in planning since the mid 60’s. It is vast, covering an area of some 90 acres and displays some phenomenal examples of craftsmanship. I didn’t feel the spiritual connection that I felt in the last temple, this one was definitely more of a tourist landmark I enjoyed it all the same.

 

A hat trick came in the shape of the tomb of Humayun, a kind of baby Taj Mahal in beige and surrounded by some ruins and an old wall that you walk along the top off if you don’t mind heights and crumbling brick. It was alright, the gardens were pleasant and it wasn’t mad busy. This was looking like our final option for timewasting so we walked our slowest walk and worked our way around.

 

Puppies! Lots and lots of them, all new and fluffy and cute. Yes, yes I was in some historical landmark of someone I’d never heard of but was expected to be wowed by every brick and blade of grass but I’m sorry sometimes there is a limit to the cultural experience you can embark on in one single week. I needed some light relief, something real, something that you couldn’t get from a guidebook or quick google search. This came in the form of a litter of puppies.

 

They kept me entertained for an age, I petted every one of those fluffy, chirpy little buggers. I was puppy broody and very content. This experience put me in a proper good mood and I had a new pair of eyes on.

 

We found a spot in one of the garden and laid back to enjoy some more of what nature had to offer. Amongst the flower beds were squirrels who were gathering more nuts then they could handle- think Scratch from Ice Age. In the trees the parakeets nattered away to one another, occasionally flying from branch to branch so we could see their brightly coloured bodies. Higher still was a convocation of eagles, I might be more mesmerized than I was with the puppies. They are very dominant in the skies, noisy and fascinating. I found myself bird watching, I expected travelling to change me but this is not the change I was expecting.

 

We exhausted the space for all it had to offer so we set off for the airport, rocked up to the front door where we were met by an armed security guard. He checks, double, triple checks our tickets and passports and then says in less words, “too early, visitors lounge”. We checked the time, 8 hours early for our flight- I hope there is WiFi.

 

The visitors lounge is a soulless space full of people like us, desperate to leave this sleeping city. Inside the holding pen you have to go through routine searches and questioning every time you get up to leave (go to the toilet), after the second frisking we decide to see where else we can go, we work our way into arrivals and nobody stops us, here we have access to food, drink, comfy seats and WiFi. Perfect, we’ll base ourselves here until we can go through to departures. The WiFi is the traditional aiport kind, free for 30 minutes and with a speed of 1m/s not at all worth using so instead I pick up a book. 8 hours fly by and before I know it it’s 2.30am and the plane is sprinting down the runway and out of this place.

 

India has been a rollercoaster and I hope to one day try another ride but for today I am ready to leave, I will never forget or regret my decision to come here its been life changing and I’ve fallen in love with most of it.

 

To round up the India part of my blog I’d like to do a quick “Top 5”

 

Top 5 most common sights on an Indian road

 

1. Motorbikes & Tuk Tuks

2. Cows

3. Tractors and Trucks

4. Camels & Goats

5. Cars

 

Top 5 best things spotted on a single motorbike

 

1. A family of five

2. A live sheep

3. A full sound system, the kind you get in a nightclub

4. Two stacks of garden chairs, 10 in each

5. A ladder

 

Top 5 things to eat/ drink

 

1. Thali- the cheapest way to eat half the menu

2. Sweet Lassi- a kind of milkshake that is not only delicious but good for you

3. Gajar Halwa- the single most delicious thing on this planet (if you have a sweet tooth)

4. Himalayan Kava- a tea which contains cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods and saffron  

5. Chapatti, Naan, Paratha & Roti. Bread, knead I say anymore? (I couldn’t resist).

 

As always, thanks for reading.

 

Up next, Hong Kong. 

Five, Six, Seven, Eight

Before leaving Jaipur we went to a shop, imaginatively named “Tea & Spice”, no points for guessing what they sold. Inside we were greeted by the kindest, most genuine and passionate man I have met so far this trip. We sat with him for well over and hour and he talked us through the many teas and spices he sold, which included tasters of whatever we wanted- from the traditional Masala Tea to more extravagant blends using Cinnamon, Cardamom and Saffron, I left there with a little less space in by bag but a little more in wallet.

The next morning we woke up early to make our way to the Blue City, Jodhpur. On the way we stopped off at a temple, we didn’t go inside as to be honest by day five of temples we were getting a little bored of them. Don’t get me wrong they are truly beautiful, magnificent structures but would I go on a tour of Churches and Cathedrals back home, probably not. Despite not feeling in the mood for going inside, outside was definitely worth spending time in. Tranquil tropical gardens, water features, and hidden coves to relax in. But then, here come the random Asian photo people. So far this trip me and Hatty have been asked for our photo more than 10 times, you can add another 10 times we’ve caught people just taking pictures or even videos of us. Each time the same thing, one person comes over and asks for a photo of you, then one of you and them together, then one of you, him and his mate. This can pattern continues until all six of his mates have had their photo with you. Bizarre at first, then funny but when you are just trying to chill out and take in the moment it’s pretty annoying. Oddly I get more attention than Hatty (for those that don’t know she has bright pink hair). They seem fascinated with my hair and beard.

I spent the five or so hour drive to Jodhpur thinking back to my short time in Jaipur, I loved it there and when I return to India on a later date I will definitely book in a longer time there. It’s magical and I strongly advise you to see it.

We arrive in Jodhpur and it’s noticeably different, from the wide open roads of Jaipur we are now squeezing the car down tight, winding alleyways full of cars, cattle and carts all crammed in like a game of Tetris that has been left to its own devices. It’s got that Indian chaotic feel but that has become a good thing in my books.

It feels richer here, this is based on the buildings alone. No longer are the streets made up of shanty structures- houses and shops alike, instead they are made of concrete, some have windows and on the drive in we saw modern shopping malls. I didn’t come looking for those home comforts but I think it’s a good sign for India that there is at least some sign of wealth, or a lack of poverty in parts. In a more selfish way, this means that there should be less hassle from Hawkers- the beggar children who drop things in your hand and then demand money from you.

Our hotel is right in the city centre, through a busy market place and has views looking over the main Fort, breakfast on the rooftop was the perfect way to start the day.

Full to the brim on chapatti and lime and pickle dip we jump in the car and set off for Udaipur, or the Lake City as it’s also known. 

First stop was a Hindu temple, like all the others we have seen so far it is a very elaborate, impressive sign of craftsmanship and architecture but as I’ve lost count of the number of temples I’ve seen already again we opted to just take in the views. Around the temple was a luscious garden which we wandered around and felt every bit at peace with ourselves. The sun was out and with no clouds to hide its power we were thankful for the large palm trees offering their shade. We wandered down a footpath which looped us back to the carpark where we enjoyed a stellar performance from the monkeys, hanging off the buses, swinging from the trees and trying their luck for some snacks.

Full of joy we hit the road again soon to arrive in Udaipur.

Our hotel was basic, when I say basic I mean no electric sockets, no warm water, a very elaborate shower toilet set-up, it was right on the main strip so noisy doesn't cover it. We shared a window with the hallway, this meant that the wall dividing the two wasn't flush and therefore you could see into our room from the hall. Initially these things bugged me but then I remembered some of the living conditions I had seen on this trip, families living on roundabouts with only a small piece of plastic to call a roof, to call home. To them, to most people here I was living in luxury. I quickly re-evaluated my situation- I am fortunate enough to have given up my job and afford to travel the world, I have a bed, a roof and my travel partner by my side- stop moaning and get out there.

The following morning we hit the streets for a full days sightseeing, temples, palaces and of course the lakes that give this city its name. Walking the streets here is a full on audio visual experience, the traffic, the street sellers, the animals, the food- sounds and smells that I hope will never leave me. The final audio visual experience came at dinner, in the restaurant the TV was playing a Bollywood movie, I was getting quite gripped in the semi dance fight sequences and the high volume of moustaches- the guy with the biggest lip warmer wins by the way. When the waiter clocked us, went over to the TV and changed it over to the AV setting, he scrolled through a hard drive that was attached and loaded another film, the familiar lions roar came out of the speakers and then the unmistakable opening sequences of Bond, James Bond camply but oh so manly pointing his gun at the screen. I could watch a 007 film any day but I was a little stumped as to why he had decided half way through the Bollywood blockbuster to put it on. My Bond knowledge isn’t great but I’m certain I’ve seen them all at some point so which one is it and why? Roger Moore comes as the first hint but still I’m confused, I decide it’s simply because it is in English and what is more English than Bond…then it hits me, Octopussy. Right then the scene is set with an iconic shot of the Taj Mahal! There is more, remember the Fort I said my room looked out on to, none other than the bad guys pad, this film is set right here. I later found out that over 80% of hotels and hostels in Udaipur show this film every night. Amazing.

With no pressing plan this morning (day 7) we treated ourselves to a lay-in, we are on holiday after all. Took a casual stroll into the city to find some breakfast, the traditional option is a plate of chapatti and variety of spicy dips, I either have a Masala Tea or Sweet Lassi to wash it down. Udaipur has a moment which remembers a great battle between a Muslim leader and a Hindu leader, in fact there were 18 battles in total, which resulted in one of the men losing an eye, hand and a foot. Is it wrong that I could only think of the Monty Python sketch, every fibre in my body wanted to shout out, “it’s merely a flesh wound”, I resisted. The museum and statues were on top of a hill which offered great views of the city.

Our next stop was the Ladies Garden (behave yourself and your childish humour). This is a tropical garden where it is said that the princesses of ancient times would come to escape the Summer heat, I’m certainly no princess but I did need some shelter from the heat and this place offered the perfect retreat. We sat by a manmade rainforest and enjoyed some Magic Curry Lays (Walkers crisps for those back home), parrots and monkeys in the trees above I was pretty content.

The final stop for today was the Monsoon Palace, less a palace more a weather station. It literally is a building positioned at the highest point of the city where someone would be based to monitor changes in the weather so the city below could be warned of bad weather, namely monsoons as you might have guessed. Although this building was not grand, the views from it were just that, and some. Mountain ranges in every direction, luscious green land on one side, hard rock, glistening in the sunlight on another. Sitting on the edge of a wall, feet dangling with nothing below me for further than I’d care to think about I was suckered into the moment. The sun had started to set and it was really something else being this high up. I was alive.

Coming down from the palace we met another clan of monkeys, the mother was picking bugs from the fathers underarms, he sat there helpless with his arms straight up in the air while she meticulously cleaned him, I don’t know why but this broke me and I started to laugh. From the trees three baby monkeys looked down at me, heads tilted with an expression like, “who’s this guy?”. I did my best monkey impression, typical hold hand out pretend you have food routine and hoped one would come a little closer. He did, confidently swinging from the branches and hopping his way over to me. I wasn't really sure what my plan was and he knew that, he posed long enough for a couple of photos and then decided to turn the tables and play a game with me. He did some monkey jumping thing, dancing from here to there, I was impressed but then he jumped a little too close, I jumped out of my skin, which in turn sent him back up the tree- the butterfly effect (monkey) was in full swing.

Our evening meal was taken alongside one of the lakes, our meal which consisted of four curries, some sides, chapattis, drinks and even a sweet cost a whopping £5 including tip, as if the views wont be enough to leave me wanting when I leave India.

Day 8 saw us back in the car for a six hour ride to the small city (might be more of a town), Pushkar. Sights here are limited to two temples and a reflective pool, where Hindus go to worship and pigeons come to feed. We took a quick glimpse at the temples on our way to the lake, the sun was only half hour from setting so we found a spot and watched the day draw in, or at least that was the plan. First there was the man offering us drugs, then the man who wanted his photo with us, and then his slightly shy friend. This was our queue to move on, we found another spot and continued taking in the scenery until we were interrupted by a stray dog and her partner they were harmless enough but there is only so much dog slobber I want on my back, plus coming down the stairs (that’s right down) was a cow. We carried on along the path and were sure this time we would find peace, within seconds a group of young boys were standing in front of us, just staring. After a very awkward amount of time they came over one-by-one and shook our hands and then ran off. We looked over at each other and decided that maybe tonight wasn’t the night for chilling out.

Back at the hotel, set away from the centre on a kind of retreat, we thought we would definitely find some serenity and for a while we did. As we headed out for dinner an Indian wedding disco was just getting started. I’ll spare you a lengthy explanation at this is already an epic post but let me just say serenity is not on the cards tonight .

We travel to Delhi tomorrow for a few nights, before flying to Hong Kong.

 Thanks for reading.

*When I get a WiFi signal strong enough I will also post some photos to accompany the words.

Two, Three and Four

Two, Three and Four

After leaving Delhi a bit dazed and confused (understatement), we hit the road, left the chaotic city and headed for open roads. For hours we saw very few cars, the roadsides offered vista point after vista point of Indian countryside, the occasional settlement of wooden huts and half built complexes but on the whole, as the sun came down it was a tranquil road trip out of the madness and into a new adventure. I fell asleep.

Horns, bangs, shouting, I woke up. Agra, it seems is even more mental than Delhi upon arrival. I credit it being dark to some of my feelings but not all. As I have mentioned the road system here is something of chaos, beautiful chaos and that doesn't calm with the setting of the sun.

The same illogical cluster of cars, people and live stock fill the roads in all directions but what was blowing my mind was the use of lights. Unlike at home where we turn our lights on when driving at night, here they leave them off and only turn them on (full beam flashes) when approaching another vehicle or object or if that vehicle or object is in your way. The driver undertook a lorry only to be met by a motorbike (no lights) coming the other way which had just overtaken a tractor with a trailer full of people standing inside, so all four vehicles passed alongside each other on a stretch of road designed for two. Another example revealed itself after having done a series of overtakes, most on the inside and around corners. We were travelling at a good speed, say around 65 mph over very rough ground when something caught the drivers eye, screaming on the breaks to a point where we were all standing up the car came to a standstill, less than a foot in front of us was a truck, no lights, open backed and carrying a load of scaffolding poles which were overhanging by some distance and sitting conveniently at eye level I had not signed up to be in the latest Final Destination movie, thankfully nor had the driver. 

We navigated more madness for around half an hour before arriving at the hotel. That was the best nights sleep I'd ever had.

In the morning we went to the Taj Mahal, it was so foggy we had to basically feel our way inside. Once there I really started to understand why it is one of the great wonders of the world. The story behind it being built and the craftsmanship is astonishing. There are inscriptions and what look like paintings covering the inside but no ink or dye was used, instead every swirl, flower and letter was painstakingly created by digging out the desired shapes from the slabs of marble and filling them with handcut pieces of precious stones. We watched a man make a table top decoration using the traditional methods and this really put into perspective the scale of the building I had just visited. 

We hit some more hotspots in Agra before hitting the road again, this time for Ranthombhor, this city and the arrival into are much quieter, poorer and colder. Having packed my bags for South East Asian beaches I was not ready for the minus degrees. I shivered myself to sleep, in the morning I saw that the hotel doesn't actually have a front door, we were in the first room off the reception area so never stood a chance of a warm night.

A half five start was necessary, we were told so we could have breakfast and then set off for the safari for 6:30 am. That time came, as did, 7 and 7:30. Indian time keeping is not a strong point, a five hour journey is often sold as "a couple". Anyway, 7.45am and the truck pulls up outside, I'm in shorts and a light hoodie, the temperature outside is, at most three degrees and my ride for the next few hours is an open top truck, for fear or turning into Harry and Lloyd when they drive to Aspen on a motorbike in Dumb and Dumber I asked if the hotel had any blankets we could use. Thankfully that was a yes. We wrapped and jumped on board.

We entered Ranthombhor Tiger Reserve and drove a good few km into the park with only the landscape to entertain us, a little while later we saw some Indian magpie, which livened everyone up as they flew about and landed on unsuspecting peoples heads. Another five minutes drive and there was a small group of deer, Hyena Deer apparently, they were beautiful and completely unaware of us. We drove on and the guide explained that last night there had been a sighting of a tiger and three cubs, I never expected to see one given the park was over 1,500km squared and there were only 25 tigers left. But what I expected even less than that was what we saw next. Digging in the soil no more than 50m away was a fully grown male Sloth Bear, a wild, shaggy black coat. He had not a care in the world, blissfully unaware if his audience he just carried on being himself, that being a bear, I saw a bear in the wild, an actual bear! I like tigers, they are majestic, powerful and beautiful but I like bears a lot more. There were other animals such as eagles and crocodiles which was cool to see, but A BEAR. WOW.

We left Ranthombhore after that and drove another 3 or so hours to Jaipur, or as it is also known; The Pink City.

As I write this, I am coming to the end of my second day in Jaipur and it is this city that has got me hooked on India, I love this place. Down in the city centre its got all the chaos, hustle and bustle you could ever want, car horn 24-7, cows, goats and dog everywhere, food stalls, people, people, people galore. But a short car ride to one of the many Forts up in the mountains and the peacefulness and tranquillity of India can be experienced ten-fold. From the cold of Ranthombhore only a few hours away I am now basking in the sun, temperatures in the high 20's, maybe more, no humidity, light winds and not a fly in sight. Mountains and lakes as far as the eye can see in every direction. I'm not a spiritual man but this was heavenly. Below, 600 odd feet below is the city of Jaipur, overcrowded and lively. The wind carries the faint sound of car horns and calls to prayer this mixes with the chatter or a tree full of parrots behind me, I could stand there all day. I've walked and climbed miles and miles today and taken in so much information, I should be tired but this place has left me so chilled. Coming back down to the city chaos was easy, the mountains have cleared my head and I'm truly ready to take on the rest of this country. 

Time constraints been I'm on the move again, tomorrows destination is Jodhpur, or as it is also known, The Blue City.

Happy reading.

An Hour, A Day, What's The Difference?

I've never been travelling before, sure I've been to plenty of countries but at only three days in I am finding there is a massive difference between travelling and going to another country on holiday. Perhaps India wasn't the best place to make this discovery but then again I am an all-or-nothing kind of person, so the deep end is where I was always going to start.

We (me and my girlfriend, Hatty) landed in New Delhi around lunchtime on the 16th January. Upon getting off the plane my head was rushing with all the things I had heard about this vibrant and eccentric city, teamed with the lack of sleep, the realisation that I had given up my life back home this trip I was feeling more than anxious. All of that left me the second I got into the airport, there was no noise, no crowds, no cows. Instead there was all the things I had come to expect of an airport, signs in English, a duty free shop and a Costa coffee. I felt both cheated and relived at the same time.

After a short half hour queue to get us through customs and passport control we got our first taste of outside Delhi, booming in through the doors was the sound of drums, people and car horns. I was excited to get out there and see it, plus I am a sucker for a good drum beat. But looking over at Hatty who's face still held some of the fear I had felt stepping off the plane I knew we would have to apply caution before stepping out to the unknown. I should also say that I was nervous as hell at this stage but I am somewhat more spontaneous- that's my internal struggle I guess.

Once outside we opted to find a taxi to get us into the centre. A car is the best and worst place to be in Delhi. On the one hand it offers you security from the over curious locals and money hungry children but when I say there is no order to their roads, I mean there is NO ORDER. We were on a road which had three lanes marked out for northbound traffic and three for southbound. The two roads were divided by one part concrete bollards, one part heaps of dirt and one part wild dogs. We sat in traffic, where normally you would expect to see a car beside you and another beside that, filling the three lanes- not here.

A minimum of 6 "vehicles" side by side, some facing forward, some sideways and other in the complete wrong direction. The traffic was made up of cars, motorbikes and tuk-tuks, camels, cows, dogs, children and street vendors. The roundabouts are seemingly used as peoples homes, their washing hung on low lying wires. People have said to me that they couldn't come to India because of the poverty, at this stage I couldn't tell you what is poverty and what is normality. 

The drive into town was quick but finding our hostel was not. There is a big election taking place here at the moment and Obama is visiting, or to give him his full name, the President of the United States of America, Barrack Obama. These two things make for a very big deal here and a a result the police have closed of large chunks of the city. Our driver tries every main road and side road he can squeeze (scrape) his car down but no joy. After an hour (felt like a day) we decided to go to a Tourist Information Centre.

From here we call our hostel and find out that the road it is situated in is closed all week and that we cant get there, not even on foot. The travel agent then told us that Delhi is basically a no go zone, so instead we should travel 5 hours on to Agra. We had a cup of Indian Chai, a very sweet tea and loaded the bags into a car and set of for Agra.

That was day one.