Five, Six, Seven, Eight

Before leaving Jaipur we went to a shop, imaginatively named “Tea & Spice”, no points for guessing what they sold. Inside we were greeted by the kindest, most genuine and passionate man I have met so far this trip. We sat with him for well over and hour and he talked us through the many teas and spices he sold, which included tasters of whatever we wanted- from the traditional Masala Tea to more extravagant blends using Cinnamon, Cardamom and Saffron, I left there with a little less space in by bag but a little more in wallet.

The next morning we woke up early to make our way to the Blue City, Jodhpur. On the way we stopped off at a temple, we didn’t go inside as to be honest by day five of temples we were getting a little bored of them. Don’t get me wrong they are truly beautiful, magnificent structures but would I go on a tour of Churches and Cathedrals back home, probably not. Despite not feeling in the mood for going inside, outside was definitely worth spending time in. Tranquil tropical gardens, water features, and hidden coves to relax in. But then, here come the random Asian photo people. So far this trip me and Hatty have been asked for our photo more than 10 times, you can add another 10 times we’ve caught people just taking pictures or even videos of us. Each time the same thing, one person comes over and asks for a photo of you, then one of you and them together, then one of you, him and his mate. This can pattern continues until all six of his mates have had their photo with you. Bizarre at first, then funny but when you are just trying to chill out and take in the moment it’s pretty annoying. Oddly I get more attention than Hatty (for those that don’t know she has bright pink hair). They seem fascinated with my hair and beard.

I spent the five or so hour drive to Jodhpur thinking back to my short time in Jaipur, I loved it there and when I return to India on a later date I will definitely book in a longer time there. It’s magical and I strongly advise you to see it.

We arrive in Jodhpur and it’s noticeably different, from the wide open roads of Jaipur we are now squeezing the car down tight, winding alleyways full of cars, cattle and carts all crammed in like a game of Tetris that has been left to its own devices. It’s got that Indian chaotic feel but that has become a good thing in my books.

It feels richer here, this is based on the buildings alone. No longer are the streets made up of shanty structures- houses and shops alike, instead they are made of concrete, some have windows and on the drive in we saw modern shopping malls. I didn’t come looking for those home comforts but I think it’s a good sign for India that there is at least some sign of wealth, or a lack of poverty in parts. In a more selfish way, this means that there should be less hassle from Hawkers- the beggar children who drop things in your hand and then demand money from you.

Our hotel is right in the city centre, through a busy market place and has views looking over the main Fort, breakfast on the rooftop was the perfect way to start the day.

Full to the brim on chapatti and lime and pickle dip we jump in the car and set off for Udaipur, or the Lake City as it’s also known. 

First stop was a Hindu temple, like all the others we have seen so far it is a very elaborate, impressive sign of craftsmanship and architecture but as I’ve lost count of the number of temples I’ve seen already again we opted to just take in the views. Around the temple was a luscious garden which we wandered around and felt every bit at peace with ourselves. The sun was out and with no clouds to hide its power we were thankful for the large palm trees offering their shade. We wandered down a footpath which looped us back to the carpark where we enjoyed a stellar performance from the monkeys, hanging off the buses, swinging from the trees and trying their luck for some snacks.

Full of joy we hit the road again soon to arrive in Udaipur.

Our hotel was basic, when I say basic I mean no electric sockets, no warm water, a very elaborate shower toilet set-up, it was right on the main strip so noisy doesn't cover it. We shared a window with the hallway, this meant that the wall dividing the two wasn't flush and therefore you could see into our room from the hall. Initially these things bugged me but then I remembered some of the living conditions I had seen on this trip, families living on roundabouts with only a small piece of plastic to call a roof, to call home. To them, to most people here I was living in luxury. I quickly re-evaluated my situation- I am fortunate enough to have given up my job and afford to travel the world, I have a bed, a roof and my travel partner by my side- stop moaning and get out there.

The following morning we hit the streets for a full days sightseeing, temples, palaces and of course the lakes that give this city its name. Walking the streets here is a full on audio visual experience, the traffic, the street sellers, the animals, the food- sounds and smells that I hope will never leave me. The final audio visual experience came at dinner, in the restaurant the TV was playing a Bollywood movie, I was getting quite gripped in the semi dance fight sequences and the high volume of moustaches- the guy with the biggest lip warmer wins by the way. When the waiter clocked us, went over to the TV and changed it over to the AV setting, he scrolled through a hard drive that was attached and loaded another film, the familiar lions roar came out of the speakers and then the unmistakable opening sequences of Bond, James Bond camply but oh so manly pointing his gun at the screen. I could watch a 007 film any day but I was a little stumped as to why he had decided half way through the Bollywood blockbuster to put it on. My Bond knowledge isn’t great but I’m certain I’ve seen them all at some point so which one is it and why? Roger Moore comes as the first hint but still I’m confused, I decide it’s simply because it is in English and what is more English than Bond…then it hits me, Octopussy. Right then the scene is set with an iconic shot of the Taj Mahal! There is more, remember the Fort I said my room looked out on to, none other than the bad guys pad, this film is set right here. I later found out that over 80% of hotels and hostels in Udaipur show this film every night. Amazing.

With no pressing plan this morning (day 7) we treated ourselves to a lay-in, we are on holiday after all. Took a casual stroll into the city to find some breakfast, the traditional option is a plate of chapatti and variety of spicy dips, I either have a Masala Tea or Sweet Lassi to wash it down. Udaipur has a moment which remembers a great battle between a Muslim leader and a Hindu leader, in fact there were 18 battles in total, which resulted in one of the men losing an eye, hand and a foot. Is it wrong that I could only think of the Monty Python sketch, every fibre in my body wanted to shout out, “it’s merely a flesh wound”, I resisted. The museum and statues were on top of a hill which offered great views of the city.

Our next stop was the Ladies Garden (behave yourself and your childish humour). This is a tropical garden where it is said that the princesses of ancient times would come to escape the Summer heat, I’m certainly no princess but I did need some shelter from the heat and this place offered the perfect retreat. We sat by a manmade rainforest and enjoyed some Magic Curry Lays (Walkers crisps for those back home), parrots and monkeys in the trees above I was pretty content.

The final stop for today was the Monsoon Palace, less a palace more a weather station. It literally is a building positioned at the highest point of the city where someone would be based to monitor changes in the weather so the city below could be warned of bad weather, namely monsoons as you might have guessed. Although this building was not grand, the views from it were just that, and some. Mountain ranges in every direction, luscious green land on one side, hard rock, glistening in the sunlight on another. Sitting on the edge of a wall, feet dangling with nothing below me for further than I’d care to think about I was suckered into the moment. The sun had started to set and it was really something else being this high up. I was alive.

Coming down from the palace we met another clan of monkeys, the mother was picking bugs from the fathers underarms, he sat there helpless with his arms straight up in the air while she meticulously cleaned him, I don’t know why but this broke me and I started to laugh. From the trees three baby monkeys looked down at me, heads tilted with an expression like, “who’s this guy?”. I did my best monkey impression, typical hold hand out pretend you have food routine and hoped one would come a little closer. He did, confidently swinging from the branches and hopping his way over to me. I wasn't really sure what my plan was and he knew that, he posed long enough for a couple of photos and then decided to turn the tables and play a game with me. He did some monkey jumping thing, dancing from here to there, I was impressed but then he jumped a little too close, I jumped out of my skin, which in turn sent him back up the tree- the butterfly effect (monkey) was in full swing.

Our evening meal was taken alongside one of the lakes, our meal which consisted of four curries, some sides, chapattis, drinks and even a sweet cost a whopping £5 including tip, as if the views wont be enough to leave me wanting when I leave India.

Day 8 saw us back in the car for a six hour ride to the small city (might be more of a town), Pushkar. Sights here are limited to two temples and a reflective pool, where Hindus go to worship and pigeons come to feed. We took a quick glimpse at the temples on our way to the lake, the sun was only half hour from setting so we found a spot and watched the day draw in, or at least that was the plan. First there was the man offering us drugs, then the man who wanted his photo with us, and then his slightly shy friend. This was our queue to move on, we found another spot and continued taking in the scenery until we were interrupted by a stray dog and her partner they were harmless enough but there is only so much dog slobber I want on my back, plus coming down the stairs (that’s right down) was a cow. We carried on along the path and were sure this time we would find peace, within seconds a group of young boys were standing in front of us, just staring. After a very awkward amount of time they came over one-by-one and shook our hands and then ran off. We looked over at each other and decided that maybe tonight wasn’t the night for chilling out.

Back at the hotel, set away from the centre on a kind of retreat, we thought we would definitely find some serenity and for a while we did. As we headed out for dinner an Indian wedding disco was just getting started. I’ll spare you a lengthy explanation at this is already an epic post but let me just say serenity is not on the cards tonight .

We travel to Delhi tomorrow for a few nights, before flying to Hong Kong.

 Thanks for reading.

*When I get a WiFi signal strong enough I will also post some photos to accompany the words.