Hong Kong

Arriving in Hong Kong from Delhi, having not slept for the past 36 hours you would think I would be needing some chopsticks to keep my eyes open but Hong Kong breathed life into me, I felt fresh, alive and excited.

Getting from the airport to the main island was a breeze, a delightful bus that was clean, spacious, comfortable and even had WiFi took us from one island to another for little over £4. Driving into Hong Kong island bought back feelings of the first time I drove into New York city, the impressive structures that sky rocket higher than the bus window would allow me to see, everything was so new and clean and calm. 

It is easy to compare Hong Kong island to New York because of the towering skyline and illuminated billboards but Hong Kong is very much its own place. The rolling mountains, beaches and water that surrounds it let you know there is much more to this place than just shopping.

We got off the bus and walked to our hostel which was perfect for our short stay here, great location, good size room and solid WiFi connection. We put our bags down and went in search of some food. Perhaps stupidly I had begun reading a book called "A Year of Eating Dangerously", in this book there is a whole chapter on Hong Kong cuisine, delights such as Cobra snake gall bladder, lizard skins, chickens feet and deep fried donkey penis. The book is a delight to read and very entertaining- the menu not so much. We opt for the safe option- a local supermarket and start thinking of making a picnic to enjoy in the near by Victoria Park. The first packages I pick up have such delicacies as the trusted chicken feet, an entire pigs face- peeled and dried in one piece- like a mask and other less recognisable cuts of animal. I am by no means a fussy eater and very open to trying new things but having survived India without too much tummy trouble I didn't want to rock the boat on day one. We grabbed some familiar snacks and went to the park.

Exercise and general well being are a big part of a Hong Kongers daily life and the park has a number of workout areas, running tracks and even free Ti Chi classes throughout the day, as well as large expanses of grass land to lounge on, either under a tree or by a man made water feature. From the in-your-face non-stop noise of India this felt like Nirvana.

Over the next few days we were set on exploring, the first stop was the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, this is free and seriously worthy of a visit. For animal lovers it is home to a variety of primates, monkeys of all types, Orang-utans and Chimpanzees, Gibbons too. There are Lemurs and Sloth's, reptiles of all descriptions and exotic birds. If plants are your things then there is tropical garden, rainforest set-up and all manor of tress and other green-life giving things. There are also some great spots to relax and step away from the city.

Our next destination was a place known as "The Peak", as I mentioned Hong Kong is surrounded by mountains and hills and The Peak is one of the best to climb and get wonderful views of the city. You can walk the old road or catch a tram to the top. Total distance from top to bottom is about one and half miles. We set about walking it.

Hong Kong is steep, to compare it to another US city it is equally as exhausting at San Francisco, or for a closer to home comparison- Cornwall on steroids. I am, or at least I was a fit man, once a keen gym goer and I even competed in a local body building competition, I prided myself in my determination and will power, always able to fight through the pain barrier. I was spent, dripping with sweat and panting like a rabid dog. I had walked twenty metres. My eyes were stinging from the salty sweat which was dripping into them I looked over at Hatty, who was ten metres behind me, slouched over a bench struggling to catch her breath. Coming up behind us were two older ladies walking a flock of dogs, they glided past us, having a full blown conversion. I felt deflated and embarrassed. I called over to Hatty, my voice now rasp from lack of fluid in my body and she dragged her way over to me. We laughed at how pathetic we were but decided to continue on our quest. We set ourselves check points and could only rest if we reached them. The hill was brutal, a true challenge of endurance and the humidity was not helping. Feeling delirious we stopped to re-evaluate our life decisions and for the first time actually stopped to look at the view. We were over half way up and almost level with the tops of some of the monstrous buildings below. Surrounded by trees, natural waterfalls and wildlife it being very apparent why we had done this. The following landmark was one of the tram stops, we sat and watched at it pulled hundreds of tourists to the summit, I despised and envied them in equal measures.  

It took us over an hour and a half to get to The Peak, upon arrival we were greeted with a mini city, shopping malls, restaurant, viewing platforms and museums. "Food" I spluttered like an infant who has just learnt a new word.

We found ourselves in a dim-sum restaurant and this was an excellent decision, the food was spectacular. We had a mushroom and chilli potstickers, shrimp and pork dumplings, honey roasted pork buns and a stack of mango mochi, all washed down with pot after pot of almond tea.

The descent was much more pleasant and we took great pleasure in watching the people on their way up as we casually rolled down the hill, high on food and high on life.

Later that evening we went to check out to night life in the lively Lan Kwai Fong area, wall to wall bars, where even the 7-11 is known as Club 7-11. Having a casual drink on the streets with friends is a cheap and totally acceptable thing to do here. We are pretty dead from our day on our feet and so are only looking not partaking. As we reach the end of the strip things get a little seedy, men- middle aged, white, taxi driver types are chucking back beers and getting ready to make a whole different kind of purchase. We've wondered into the cities Red Light District and although intriguing it isn't an ideal place to take your girlfriend.

Wednesday in Hong Kong is free museum day, and as it was a little overcast this looked like a great option. We caught the ferry to Kowloon island at the expense of about 25p each, the boat ride over to the other island gave us yet more great views and being on the water meant the humidity felt less harsh.

Once off the boat we had a real pick of some great museums, one for art, one for science another for space and one for history. The art museum was first and was by far the most interesting exhibition I had been to, or at least the best in a long time. The main event was a huge kind of memorial to to the recently deceased artist, Tong King Sum. His work was mostly comprised of wooden sculptors and every piece was more beautiful and desirable than the next. There was a documentary video playing about his life and his work and a mock up of his workshop. I enjoyed every minute of my time in there.

In part, if I am honest it was because I was sitting down and not using my feet, which as a result of doing yesterdays expedition in flip flops were so swollen and tender I would sooner cut them off then use them again.

I hobbled like a broken old goat around the Science museum hunting out every seat or seat like object I could find. Eventually after hours of this torturous ordeal we worked out our priorities.

We had heard of a great night market on Kowloon island and knew that they did a light show using the skyscrapers each night. This sounded great, street food and a novelty, garish and completely Asian entertainment. We checked the time and the route and then open a web browser. YouTube, search, Kowloon light show. Seven minutes later, having not left the children's seating area in the science museum we decided the light would be ok to miss. We then searched reviews of the night market. "tourist toot" "beware pickpockets" "lost its charm" "the food is awful". Phew we both exclaimed, let us reside our sorry selves back to the apartment.

Hong Kong is famous for many things and not least of those is the abundance on massage parlours. Now the words "massage" and "parlour" only spring up one expression. But here in Hong Kong the menu seems to only concentrate on your feet, no higher. It takes some convincing for Hatty to be on board with the idea- she has very sensitive feet and cant shake the "happy ending" idea out of her head. We do some homework, which reveals the variety of service experienced in these foreign places. "As long as they dont have a winky face in the window we'll be fine" I say.

Sat side by side with our feet submerged in a giant bucket of warm, jelly filled water- mine is apparently ginger and Hatty's is rose we can feel the life come back into our hoofs. Two men appear and begin to wrap our legs and feet in bundles of warm towels. I had hoped, or at least envisioned getting a petite Asian lady to perform the massage but instead I was being manhandled by Lurch, cold eyed and heavy handed. I caught Hattys eye and we burst out laughing.

The massage lasted for 45 minutes in that time my toes were pulled, clicked, bent back and forward. My calves and shins were prodded and punched and squeezed as if he was ringing out a wet flannel. The service ends with your battered and bruised legs being moisturised and covered once again in hot, scented towels. The blood settles and I feel like I have two new legs. Richard Kiel's bigger brother stomps around the corner and I cower behind the cover given to me at the start of this ordeal. He unwraps my legs like a surgeon would a patient, looking at me to see if I'm pleased with his work. Without warning he once again starts to thump and punch my calves and shins. Did I give the wrong look? We pay our money and hobble out onto the street, sore and confused.

In the morning it all made sense and I woke up like a new man with a spring in my step. I love my new feet and I'm no longer afraid of walking.

Our last day in Hong Kong was to be a brief one as that afternoon we were to fly to Bangkok. We did some light shopping and some less light eating and then slobbed in the park until the bus arrived to take us to the airport.

If it is big city living, high end shops and state of the art technology you want HK is for you. If you like food, not just Asian cuisine but quality, diverse flavoursome food inspired by all corners of the globe then HK is for you. If you like wide open spaces, hills, mountains, beaches, lakes HK is for you. If you like cleanliness, order, punctuality HK is for you. If you like art, music, culture HK is for you. I urge everyone to visit this fantastic place, whatever your tastes you wont be disappointed.  My trip here was brief and has left me hungry to return, I hope it one day does the same for all of you.

My next chapter begins on the plane to Bangkok. It'll be here for you to view just as soon as I write it.

As always thanks for reading.